Test Drive Unlimited 2 Steering Wheel Support

As promised, here is the article on setting up the Logitech G27 (or G25) with Test Drive Unlimited 2 PC. This article was originally it’s placeholder during the game’s Beta period, but has become too popular to convert.

Due to the popularity of this topic and the confusion surrounding setting up steering wheels, I will be updating this current article to assist gamers in enjoying their various other wheels on PC, PS3, and Xbox360. If you post a comment about your wheel experience, be sure to say which platform it is for.

I moved the troubleshooting section down below to make room for the quickly expanding “unofficial wheel list.”

First… the Officially Supported Devices

• GamePads
• Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller for Windows
• Logitech Dual Action Gamepad
• Steering Wheels
• Logitech G25 Racing Wheel
• Logitech Driving Force GT
• Logitech Driving Force Pro
• Logitech MOMO Force
• Logitech G27 Racing Wheel
• Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo S Wheel

And Unofficially…

I’ve been in contact with a lot of gamers in the racing community regarding what works and what doesn’t. I decided to put together a table showing wheels that have been confirmed working.

This list is being built by you, for you. Your feedback is encouraged to help fill out this list and correct user error. Comment with your experience of wheel or pad and which platform you play on at the bottom of the article.

TDU2 Wheel Troubleshooting Tips

Since wheel issues are a huge TDU2 topic right now, I’ll start with some tips that should help eliminate a good portion of the trouble everyone is experiencing.

• Steering: Both PC and console users should set ‘Steering Sensitivity’ to the left. It appears to be backwards.
• Console Users: Turn off other controllers on your PS3 or Xbox when attempting to use the wheel.
• Software: PC users, be sure to use your wheel’s profiler/setup software.
• Driving Aid: A game option that is on “full” by default. May make your wheel feel like its reacting strangely. Try both off and on.
• Rotation: TDU2 allows for custom wheel rotation settings up to 900°. 200 is the normal setting for this game. Set this up in your wheel profiler if your wheel supports it.
• Car’s Wheel: Don’t compare the car’s wheel turning to your physical wheel. They probably won’t match. TDU1 could show 1:1 steering between the in-game wheel and a PC wheel, referred to as wheel linearity. TDU2 does not.
• Pedals (PC): Logitech, Fanatec, and Thrustmaster wheels have both a combined and a separate pedal option. TDU2 utilizes separate pedals. Set this up in your wheel profiler. If your car is revving and not moving, this is the problem.
• Gearbox: By default, TDU2 is set to Automatic transmission. If you wondered why your shifter or paddles are not working, you need to enter Options > Game Settings and select Sequential, H-Shifter, or H-Shifter and Clutch.
• Global Settings: Logitech users: Make sure global settings don’t override game settings. This concerns combined pedals, degrees of rotation, and FFB strengths. G25/G27 owners refer to my global settings guide.
• Vibration: Vibration settings may sound like a ‘rumble’ feature but turning it down means you won’t feel anything when driving in a straight line.
• Fanatec Owners: A grinding noise has been reported when Fanatec wheels are centered. Until a patch is issued, one user suggests setting controller linearity to the left and setting the Fanatec sensitivity setting to 360 or more.
• Fanatec Owners: It’s reported that the clutch doesn’t work. Can anyone confirm this is cross-platform? I know it’s happening on Xbox360.
• General: You cannot connect a wheel while the game is running. Plug it in then restart the game.
• General: Make sure no other controller devices are plugged in.
• General: If applicable, be sure you have your wheel powered in addition to USB cords.

• Game Wont Recognize Wheel: At least one of every wheel that is confirmed to work has not been recognized by someone’s PC version of TDU2. This includes Logitech, Fanatec, Thrustmaster, and Apollo. This problem seems widespread around the community and no known cause has been identified (yet). One user tried multiple brands of wheels, none of which would be detected by the game. Most users have overcome this by manually setting up their controls.

Device Detection

From the game’s readme file:

To switch from Keyboard controls to one of the game controllers, go to the “Controls” section in the options menu, select the button “Detect Device”, and scroll through the options to select and validate your device.

Of course, support is not limited to only these devices. TDU2 includes automatic device detection and allows you to map your buttons any way you want, but so far the results have been spotty.

It can be quite the task to setup your controls for the first time, since there are more functions available than keys to support them, even on the Logitech G27.

In addition to the standard fare like “Return to Road” and “Change View,” you have to find a good spot for horn, windows, roof (if applicable), radio on/off, radio volume, turn signals, and even seventh gear.

Wheel Options

Like TDU, the sequel allows you to choose your shifter style- paddle shifters, H-shifter, or H-shifter with clutch. It also brings back linearity and sensitivity sliders. However, these sliders don’t necessarily improve the experience.

The biggest difference between the first game’s control scheme is support for force feedback. The original game dropped the ball on that one and had no FFB after being patched to version 1.66.

The force feedback itself is nothing to write home about and certainly sub-par, especially when compared to Shift or Grid. I guess in a marketplace littered with games having no feedback support at all (Hot Pursuit, Blur, Split Second), things could be much worse.